Carbon-Rich
(brown and dry) |
Nitrogen-Rich
(green and moist) |
Materials Which Should
Not Be Composted |
|
Straw
Sawdust
Pine Needles
Small branches
Dryer Lint
Dry grass clippings
Dried plant materials (trimmings, leaves, vines)
|
Cactus
Wet
grass clippings
Fresh plant clippings
Vegetable and fruit wastes
Barnyard manures and beddings
Spoiled food
Alfalfa pellets from feed stores
Tea bags/coffee grounds
Hair/fur/feathers |
Any kind of meat, grease, fat or oil. Any dairy product,
especially cheese.
Egg shells
Dog and cat feces
Diseased or invasive plants, such as seeds or roots of
Bermuda grass.
Oleander, Eucalyptus, and Tamarisk. These contain toxins
that inhibit plant growth and must be used sparingly.
Any plant materials treated with herbicides or pesticides
will prove to be troublesome unless the compost is aged at least a year.
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How to start
Select a place in the yard, preferably in the shade, out of the wind, and within
reach of water.
Assemble some type of bin to contain your
composting organic matter. For little or no cost, a bin can be made from
a circle of heavy mesh wire, old wooden pallets, or concrete blocks.
Or, you can contact the city for a free
recycled compost container at 480-350-8265.
To ensure successful composting, it is a good idea to make your bin a minimum of 30
inches in each direction. This size insulates itself while allowing air to penetrate.
Should you choose not to build a bin, commercially-made composting bins offer an easy
and attractive way to recycle organic matter at home.
Steps to success
Once the bin is constructed, stockpile dry organic materials and follow these simple steps:
Shred or chop all materials into four-inch pieces or smaller in order to expose more
surface area for the microorganisms to work on.
Dig up two inches of soil where the bin will stand. Add a small layer of finger-sized
branches to allow air to enter from below.
Provide a mixture of about four parts dry or woody material (carbon-rich) to one part
wet material (nitrogen-rich).
Build the pile: Mixing all of your materials before adding them to the pile works best,
but layering wet and dry material alternately also produces good results. Each layer
should be no more than four inches thick. Occasionally sprinkle in soil or manure to
provide the bacteria needed to start decomposition. If using food waste (vegetable scraps
only) be sure it is buried under other layers to avoid flies.
As each layer is added, sprinkle lightly with water, ensuring moisture throughout the
pile. The interior should be moist, not wet. During periods of heavy rain, cover with a
tarp.
Once your container is full, top off the pile with two inches of soil.
As decomposition takes place, the pile will begin to heat up. Interior heat can reach
160 degrees Fahrenheit.
Before the pile has cooled down to the ambient air temperature, reactivate it by
allowing more oxygen to penetrate the pile. Simply turn the material into a second bin, or
use a turning fork to thoroughly mix the pile. It may be necessary to add more water or
green plant materials.
Note: Our
process ensures compost in two to three months. You may wish to turn your pile
less frequently, although the composting process will take longer.
Repeat these steps as needed until the mixture is soft, dark, and crumbly.
To use the finished compost, sift on a 1/2 inch mesh screen to remove large,
semi-decomposed pieces. Return these to the bin for further breakdown.
Troubleshooting
|
Symptoms |
Problem |
Solution |
| The compost has a bad odor |
Not enough air and/or too wet |
Turn it, adding dry materials if too wet |
| The center of the pile is dry and little
or no decomposition is taking place |
Not enough water |
Add green materials and sprinkle with
water while turning it |
| The compost is damp and warm in the
middle but nowhere else |
Pile is too small |
Collect more material and mix with the
old ingredients to form a new pile at least 30" X 30" X 30" |
| The compost is damp and sweet smelling,
but will not heat up |
Too little nitrogen |
Mix in a good source of nitrogen such as
green grass clippings, bloodmeal, ammonium sulfate |
Take a Closer
Look
Nature has its own very effective composting program
using millions of microscopically small organisms (bacteria and fungi). Were it not for
everyday decay, we would be walking on mile-high piles of debris. Earthworms, pill bugs,
insects, and centipedes all play a part in breaking down organic materials, and by
providing care, we can speed up the process nature performs itself.
In order to live and work within a compost pile, microorganisms must have oxygen,
water, nitrogen, and carbon. Woody and dry materials are rich in nitrogen, and supply
protein. The microbes produce heat as they grow and multiply. If you provide the proper
ratio of carbon-rich to nitrogen-rich materials, make a large enough pile, and ensure that
moisture and aeration are adequate, you will produce a hot, fast compost. A small pile
will not heat up, but will decompose in time as well.
Food Waste
Composting for Small Spaces
Garbage Soup -- Combine chopped kitchen wastes with
equal amounts of water in your blender or food processor. Bury this "soup"
around the outer edges of plants or place directly into a garden trench. Fill with soil
and water well. Seeds or transplants can be added immediately.
Worm Boxes -- For placement on a shaded balcony or in a carport, use a wood box with
small drainage holes in the bottom and, if possible, a tight-fitting lid. As an example, a
2' X 2' X 8" box will compost kitchen scraps from two people, assuming four pounds of
garbage per week. The box must be filled with moistened bedding make from a mixture of
shredded cardboard, dried leaves, and/or peat moss. Add at least 100 red wiggler worms.
Dig chopped or blended scraps into a different place each time. A fitted piece of carpet
works well as a cover, retains moisture, and helps to keep temperatures below 85 degrees.
Remove the compost every three months. Refill the box and transfer the worms.
A bottomless box can be placed directly on loosened soil. Fill in the same manner.
After three months lift the box and leave behind a fertile bed of compost. Start again in
a new place. Keep shaded during extreme heat.
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